UK Road Trip Week 4 - The Highland Whisky Trail to The Top
- Ash Collins
- Oct 11, 2022
- 7 min read
Updated: Oct 16, 2022
As we bid a fond farewell to the Scottish capital, my trusty navigator plotted our course Northward to begin week 4 of our road trip. Feeling resolute and with a fierce determination, I placed the 3 into first gear and proceeded to the M90 exiting the Kingdom of Fife as we headed toward Aberdeen.
Known as the Granite City because of its silvery granite buildings, the coastal city of Aberdeen, not surprisingly, has a strong maritime tradition. For centuries this important fishing hub developed firm trading links with nearby Scandinavia. When organising our trip, we intended visiting The Shetland Islands via the ferry that departs Aberdeen for Lerwick. Unfortunately this plan of action received a well placed torpedo strike to the starboard bow as we could not get a ferry ⛴ across with the 3 on board until early September. Despite the disappointment, we pivoted (😜) and opted for Plan B…well that was as soon as we formulated a Plan B.
Interspersed amongst the shops, bars and restaurants, the city‘s historic buildings and landmarks provided sufficient scope for a full days walking. Setting off from Shiprow, our direction finder had us pointed toward Old Aberdeen. Strolling along Broad Street, we passed the Neo-Gothic Marischal College, part of the Aberdeen University campus. Constructed in the early 18th century the building now plays host to public servants and corporate offices in conjunction with Aberdeen University’s museum. Continuing on, we walked along Broad St. to Kings Crescent and to College Bounds where we reached Old Aberdeen. This beautiful street, lined with fine old houses, is also the location of King’s College. King’s College was founded by Bishop Elphinstone under a Papal Bull issued by Pope Alexander VI on 10 February 1495 becoming Aberdeen’s first university and Scotland’s 3rd. Also featuring prominently in the College quadrangle is King’s Chapel consecrated in 1509 with its most striking feature being the imperial crown sitting atop the tower. Venturing inside the chapel, visitors are greeted by 52 medieval choir stalls which date to 1509.
Having left the eerie and spooky churchyard, we headed to another section of the geographically well spread Aberdeen University campus...the King's College Library. With access to over 1.3 million books, the Sir Duncan Rice bibliotheca is one of the largest and best equipped assemblage of books in the UK.
Cheerio to the granite city and hello to the Highlands and Whisky trail. The route from Aberdeen to Inverness runs through a landscape of brooding mountains and sparkling rivers littered with picture-book castles, Coopers and of course world famous whisky producers.
Our first stop this morning would be the beautiful 18th century stone bride that spans a tributary of the mighty River Dee, the Bridge of Feugh. Located south of Banchory on the A974, the bridge the water spans a rocky outcrop covered by the furiously foaming water. When in season (Feb - Mar / Sep-Nov) punters have a very good chance of seeing spawning salmon leaping over the rocks to reach the calm waters beyond. Due to a lack of rain the tributary appeared quite docile and of course we arrived a couple of weeks prematurely to see the salmon...otherwise spectacular.
Having safely negotiated and crossed the bridge, my trusty sidekick Nav directed me to our next location along the A93, Crathes Castle. Built in the 16th century, this fairytale castle with its exquisite interior and original painted ceilings provided Trace with her first must see experience...Scotland's 'airee coo'. Penned into their enclosure, your natural reaction is to leap the fence and cuddle these furry bovine beauties. Have restrained the enamoured Nav from taking a leap of faith, she settled for a close up view and plenty of snaps for the scrapbook.
From the Coos to another type of Mother's Milk we pointed the 3 in the direction of Dufftown lying just outside of Keith in Banffshire. Popularly known as 'the town built on seven stills' Dufftown is regarded as the epicentre of the malt whisky world. There are 200 or so distilleries that dot the Speyside region making the selection of a visitation list a very difficult task indeed. Having said that, quality whisky is wasted on this designated driver...one might say it is akin to putting lipstick on a pig. Despite this we pulled into the carpark of one of the whisky world's most popular brands, the Glenfiddich Distillery. Using water from the local springs, Glenfiddich has been producing some of the worlds best single malts since 1887. With its shiny copper stills and warehouses, this is a whisky buffs delight complete with a bonus opportunity of sampling a wee dram.
With our cockles warmed by a 16 year old Balvenie single malt finished a fine French oak barrel, 'twas time to head to our base location for the next couple of nights, Inverness. Sitting serenely on the River Ness, Inverness is acknowledged as the capital of the Highlands. The river is flanked on one side by 19th century castle that lies on the site of a much earlier structure destroyed by the Jacobite army after 1746. On the other banks stands Inverness Cathedral with its fine stained-glass windows. And of course Inverness is best known these days as the destination of the mythical, legendary creature 'Nessie' that allegedly resides in the depths of Loch Ness.
A location of great personal interest located ~12 miles from the city is the bleak expanse of Culloden Moor where, on 16 April 1746, the last battle of the Jacobite risings took place. Lasting only an hour, the Jacobite army of (Bonnie Prince) Charles Edward Stuart was decisively defeated by a British government force under Prince William Augustus, Duke of Cumberland, at Culloden in the Scottish Highlands. Bombarded by cannon shot and mortar bombs, the Jacobite clans held back, waiting for the order to attack. When at last they moved forward through driving rain, smoke, gunfire and grapeshot the government troops were prepared for the Highland charge; under brutal gunfire and faced with deadly bayonets, the Jacobites were forced to retreat. Although a short battle it was an exceptionally bloody one that changed life in the Highlands forever. It was the last pitched battle fought on British soil.
Putting the emotion and historical significance of our visit to Culloden behind us, it was time to venture further Norf to pick up the North Coast 500; Scotland's answer to Route 66. Bringing together a route of just over 500 miles (516 to be exact…) of stunning coastal scenery, white sandy beaches, rugged mountains, remote fishing villages, hidden gems, and a wealth of unforgettable experiences, the North Coast 500 is one of the world’s most beautiful road trips.
From Inverness we headed Northwest and picked up the NC500 in the Sutherland region climbing to our eventual destination in the far North, John O'Groats. The dramatic north-western scenery gave us the feeling that we were cast members of an Indiana Jones adventure. Snaking along a coastline where mountains meet the sea toward the scattered fishing communities with quaint harbours, award winning golf courses, fairy tale castles combined with the unspoilt, naturally stunning landscapes / seascapes provided for a breathtaking Highland drive.
After a long day behind the wheel Nav, the 3 and I cruised into the UK's most Northern location (not really) John O' Groats. JoG is known as the northernmost point of mainland Great Britain. However, the northernmost part of the British mainland is in fact Dunnet Head, and the most northerly point in the British Isles is the Muckle Flugga lighthouse on a rock off the island of Unst in Shetland. Taking poetic licence into consideration, we were very pleased to have arrived safely into the most northerly village on the Scottish mainland. There isn't much to do in John O'Groats other than get your photograph taken with the famous signpost. Bollocks I say as there is a perfectly good brewery open and young Donald more than prepared to pour the perfect pint to quench the thirst of this weary driver and his able assistant Nav!
Although we missed the opportunity to take a ferry out to the Shetlands, today would provide our first offshore experience with a visit to the Orkney's. The full day excursion began with a smooth 40 minute crossing the Pentland Firth on the MV Pentland Venture to Burwick. Upon our arrival we transferred to our luxury coach driven by ex-British Army NCO Paul from Clapham Junction. The comprehensive tour took in all the principal sites including Skara Brae (5,000 year old stone-age village), Scapa Flow (Home of the WWI & WWII British Fleet), Stromness (Viking Port), Kirkwall (Largest town), the Churchill Barriers (Protective Barriers for the Fleet), the Ring of Brodgar (Neolithic formation pre-dating Stonehenge), the Standing Stones of Stenness and the Italian Chapel (Built by WWII Italian prisoners of war).
Back on the road today for a drive West across the top of Scotland along the NC500 to our final destination Ullapool. Today's ~300 km road trip would combine the beauty of the harsh coastline from John O'Groats through Thurso, Tongue into Durness contrasted with the rugged mountainous terrain leading down from Durness via Lochinver into Ullapool.
The raw beauty of the Scottish Highlands Northwest was well and truly showcased around every twist n' turn through the Grampian Mountains and around the Great Glen. Through much of the day you could be forgiven for thinking that we were somewhere in the Alps based upon the scenery. As a photographer, you are constantly challenged with capturing images that are as close to that which the naked eye enjoys such that your audience can share in the awesome natural beauty you witness. My only hope is that I have been able to capture digital reproductions of this awe inspiring landscape that provide you, the readers, with some appreciation of the breathtaking terrain.
Well my distinguished Blog fans that concludes a very busy and action packed week 4 of our UK road trip. Be on the look out for week 5 as we head offshore for some Island hopping...
Cheers 🍻 🚦
Ash n' Trace
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